Doctor-led product guidance

Why this product — and when another may suit you better.

This serum contains an incredibly stable form of Vitamin C called THD ascorbate which is perfect for even the most sensitive skin types. The serum is oil (rather than water) based so goes on like a dream but still absorbs quickly ready for the next step in your routine. Aside from 14% THD ascorbate, it contains a good measure of squalene (to support the skin barrier function), Vitamin E and Marakuja oil (both of which are intensely moisturising and antioxidants in their own right). If you want to a luxurious feeling antioxidant that also helps prevent and treat signs of ageing, dull skin including mild pigmentation then this is a great product to think about.

Why it made The Curatory

Vitamin C serums are notoriously hard to compare. I take into account the type of Vitamin C, the other active ingredients, the concentrations, the stability of the product and the type of base that it’s sitting in (water or oil etc). All of these things affect not just how effective the formula is but also how it feels on the skin. Medik8 have created a serum here that is both effective and feels good - something that lots of brands have struggled to achieve at this price point.

It may suit you if…

Everyone should have some form of antioxidant in their skincare routine and Vitamin C is at the top of the list for its ability to help support collagen synthesis and help improve/prevent hyperpigmentation. Of all the forms of Vitamin C, THD ascorbate is one of the most stable and suitable for even very sensitive skin. The additional ingredients including squalene, marakuja oil and vitamin E help to support the skin barrier and gradually improve your skin’s ability to hold onto water. If you like the feel of slightly more luxurious, oil-based (but still light weight) serums then you’ll love the feel of this product.

Another option may be better if…

As this product is oil-based you may find that if you naturally have slightly oiler skin or are prone to breakouts with oil-based products that this shouldn’t be your first line antioxidant. That being said the ingredients including the highly stable THD ascorbate aren’t intrinsically comedogenic unlike some other forms of Vitamin C. 

What to expect

Expect a soft, nourished finish and gradual support for brightness and tone. It should complement, not replace, daily sunscreen.

Product overview

This serum contains an incredibly stable form of Vitamin C called THD ascorbate which is perfect for even the most sensitive skin types. The serum is oil (rather than water) based so goes on like a dream but still absorbs quickly ready for the next step in your routine.

Aside from 14% THD ascorbate, it contains a good measure of squalene (to support the skin barrier function), Vitamin E and Marakuja oil (both of which are intensely moisturising and antioxidants in their own right).

If you want to a luxurious feeling antioxidant that also helps prevent and treat signs of ageing, dull skin including mild pigmentation then this is a great product to think about.

 

Routine placement Where this fits MorningAntioxidant

A broad guide to where this sits, without assuming how many steps your routine has.

Usual time of use: Morning
How to introduce it

As it’s such a thin product it should be applied early in your routine and can be used both morning and evening. After cleansing (and toning if this is in your routine) use the pipette and pop 5-6 drops in the palm of your hand. Using a finger on the other hand gently massage the product into your face and neck - you’ll need a few more drops if you want to treat your chest. Allow to sink in and settle for a few of minutes before applying any other products over the top.

You shouldn’t be getting any irritation with this product but worth starting with once daily use for the first two weeks before building up to twice daily. 

A big no-no for this product (or any others that have a pipette) is to not let the pipette touch your skin, be it your hand or your face - although the products are well preserved we don’t want any nasties growing in it.

Guidance continues after purchase. We can help you introduce, simplify or adjust this product.

Inside the formula

The ingredients that make this special

A closer look at the ingredients doing the most meaningful work in this formula—and what the evidence can reasonably tell us.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

A highly antioxidant and stable form of Vitamin C that helps prevent and treat aging changes and pigmentation.

Read the clinical context

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a mouthful so we call it THD ascorbate which is only marginally better. This is a very stable form of Vitamin C that supports collagen production and mops up free radicals that damage the skin barrier, collagen and DNA. Together this improves overall skin quality, hydration and pigmentation.

Squalane

A highly moisturising and lightweight oil that helps keep the upper layers of the skin hydrated.

Read the clinical context

Squalane is a lipid (oil) that almost perfectly matches some of the lipids found in the skin barrier. Aside from being a lovely carrier solution for active ingredients it also supports the skin barrier and keeps the deeper layers of the skin hydrated. It acts as both an emollient and a very mild occlusive.

Vitamin E

A potent antioxidant that helps to prevent aging changes, support collagen production and stabilise Vitamin C.

Read the clinical context

Vitamin E not only helps to stabilise Vitamin C and make it more potent, it also works as an anti-oxidant by itself by mopping up the free radicals that cause damage to DNA, collagen and elastin.

Red Ginseng

Contains a cocktail of compounds that helps to improve pigmentation.

Read the clinical context

Red Ginseng is rich in compounds like p-coumaric acid which help reduce the activity of the cells that produce pigment (melanocytes). When combined with other skin brightening ingredients it can help to gently fade and prevent dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Maracuja Oil

A light-weight and highly moisturising oil that helps to hydrate the upper layers of the skin.

Read the clinical context

Maracuja Oil reduces evaporation of water from the deeper layers of the skin by supporting the skin barrier as well as working as an anti-oxidant in its own right. Falls under the emollient and occlusive class of moisturisers.

View the complete ingredients list

Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Ethyl Linoleate, Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Limonene, Citral, Linalool, Geraniol.

The thinking behind the formula

More about Medik8

Medik8 develops and manufactures virtually all of its products at its ISO-certified innovation centre near London. Its in-house scientists focus on formulation, stability and ingredient delivery rather than following a trend simply because it is popular.

Crystal Retinal is a good example. Retinal is an effective but fragile molecule, so Medik8 uses encapsulation, a patented stabilising complex and protective packaging, alongside a ladder of strengths designed for measured progression.