Dr Max’s view

Why I chose it

What I like about AlphaRet Overnight Cream is that it brings retinoid and exfoliating roles together in one formula. For an established active-product user, that can simplify an evening routine rather than adding another separate acid step.

The price only represents value if the formula genuinely suits your skin and replaces overlapping products. It is not the most sensible first retinoid for everyone, and a lower-cost or lower-strength option may be a better place to begin.

The supported SkinBetter pathway is useful here because it gives us a chance to consider fit, current actives and the right starting size before purchase.

Dr Max GreenfieldMBBS, BSc, MRCS(Eng)

Routine placement

Where this fits

A broad guide to where this sits, without assuming how many steps your routine has.

Usual time of use: Evening
Comes afterCleansing and lighter leave-on products
This product SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream
Comes beforeMoisturiser
Curate your full skincare routine
How to introduce it

As with all retinoids, it's worth building up slowly. The Skin Better Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream has been designed specifically to reduce sensitivity, but even then, slow and steady is always better.

You should be applying AlphaRet Overnight Cream after you have removed your make up, cleansed and completed the rest of your skin care routine.

Once your face has dried or your previous product has fully absorbed, apply a single pump of product to your face in a thin layer. Allow this to dry and apply your regular moisturiser if required.

With all retinoids I suggest applying them three nights per week for the first 3-4 weeks, every other day for the following 3-4 weeks and if tolerated then every evening.

Guidance continues after purchase. We can help you introduce, simplify or adjust this product.

Inside the formula

The ingredients that make this special

A closer look at the ingredients doing the most meaningful work in this formula—and what the evidence can reasonably tell us.

AlphaRet®

A patented retinoid blend designed to improve skin texture and reduce visible signs of ageing with less irritation.

Read the clinical context

AlphaRet® is a proprietary ingredient that combines a retinoid with an alpha hydroxy acid in a single molecule. Small clinical studies, largely manufacturer-sponsored, suggest it can improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture and pigmentation while being better tolerated than traditional retinoids. As with other vitamin A–based ingredients, results are gradual and depend on consistent use. Independent large-scale trials are limited, so while early data is promising, it should be viewed as an advanced cosmetic retinoid rather than a prescription-strength treatment.

Glycolic Acid

An exfoliating AHA that helps to smooth skin texture and increase skin cell turnover.

Read the clinical context

Glycolic Acid is an alphahydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to chemically exfoliate the top layer of dead skin cells (corneocytes). This allows healthy new skin cells to come to the surface which contributes to improvement in skin texture, tone and radiance. It also helps to strengthen the skin barrier over time. Those with acne, particularly closed comedones (raised bumps with no blackhead) will also find glycolic acid helpful. 

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

A highly antioxidant and stable form of Vitamin C that helps prevent and treat aging changes and pigmentation.

Read the clinical context

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a mouthful so we call it THD ascorbate which is only marginally better. This is a very stable form of Vitamin C that supports collagen production and mops up free radicals that damage the skin barrier, collagen and DNA. Together this improves overall skin quality, hydration and pigmentation.

Hyaluronic Acid

A potent hydrating ingredient that draws water towards it.

Read the clinical context

Hyaluronic Acid is a moisturising ingredient that helps boost hydration in the skin when combined with other moisturising agents. It falls into the category of humectant moisturisers that draw water into the upper layers of the skin. Works best when combined with emollient and occlusive moisturisers.

View the complete ingredients list

Aqua/Water, Sodium Glycolate, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Sorbitan Olivate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Ceresin, Glycol Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethyl Lactyl Retinoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Superoxide Dismutase, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Linoleic Acid, Cholesterol, Linolenic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Steareth-2, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Hydrated Silica, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)

The thinking behind the formula

More about SkinBetter Science

SkinBetter Science was established in 2016 by a team with backgrounds in dermatologic and aesthetic medicine. The brand develops clinician-dispensed skincare around proprietary technologies, formulation work and brand-sponsored clinical testing; it is now part of L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty.

Its range includes AlphaRet products, which combine a retinoid with an alpha hydroxy acid, alongside peptide-led InterFuse products and supportive skincare. These are different product families with different roles, rather than one formula being representative of the whole brand.